The purpose of life, after all, is to live it, to taste experience to the utmost, to reach out eagerly and without fear for newer and richer experiences
-Eleanor Roosevelt
Today was a day like no other. It’s safe to say that this day was probably the best, most inspiring and truly unique experience so far in our travels.
Gary surprised me last night by telling me that he had booked us a trekking tour through a one man business ‘Authentik Bali’ (which was also the number one thing to do in Ubud may I add).
I’d seen the tours online but thought it was too far out of our price range. Let’s just say I was absolutely thrilled and could not wait until the next again morning!!
We woke up at 6.30am (our earliest start) and after downing an extra strong coffee we met our tour guide, Augustin who picked us up at 7.30am right outside the apartment.
Augustin was sincerely one of the most interesting and genuine people I have ever met. On our way to pick up the other three guests (He takes 6 people maximum) per day, he told all about how he came to creating his special business.
Originally from Paris, 25 year old Augustin told us how he hated school and was not much of an academic. He lived in Jakarta as a small child and after holidaying in Bali one year he wanted to relocate after finishing school where he was studying hospitality management.
After landing his first job in Bali as a hotel manager he worked away earning money for a year but realised he would not make enough to sustain a proper full life in Bali.
So on his own accord, he set up a tour called ‘Authentik Bali’ where he has 8 different treks on offer to anyone who is looking to see the real Bali, away from the commercialised and built up touristy areas (which arguably much of Bali has sadly become to be).
What’s most unique though is Augustin never quite knows exactly which tour he will go on during his trips and he waits until he meets his guests before deciding what he feels they would be most suited to. There are no times and restrictions during his tours, no strict schedules – it is his love and respect from the people he has met over the last two years, his knowledge of everything that is Bali and the fact that he can speak the language are what make his tours extra special.
He makes you feel just as involved in the locals lifestyle and he managed to completely set apart any other Balinese experience we have had to date.
We picked up another guest – Michael from Germany – also 25 and set off on our way. The other two guests that were supposed to join us on the tour chickened out at last minute after being told they may potentially get wet… Stupid if you ask me as every tour review we looked at talked about different possible activities, all of which have the potential to get your clothes a bit wrecked…
I felt for Augustine as he explained that he was currently turning away at least 10 people a day due to being fully booked which is challenging enough for a one man band. It was great for us though, as a group of 4 lead to a much more intimate and personal experience.
We stopped off on the way to our chosen village and took a look at some ceremonial preparations taking place in a remote area of Bali. The people working were so friendly and welcomed the four of us to take a look at what they were planning. It was astonishing to find out that the ceremony that they were preparing for was in fact a whole two months away! Just showed exactly how serious they take their celebrations.
Augustin showed us how women and men will always work separately and it was in fact the women that always done the hardest work and the longest hours.
There were surrounding markets nearby where everybody seemed to be packing up their stalls with it being only around 9am at that point. Augustine explained how women would wake at around 1am to set up their markets selling locally produced goods and services.
They would do this as it is much cooler and there is far less traffic about which makes shopping much easier. He even suggested we should visit small markets at 4am as they are so bustling then! This helped explain why many Balinese people sleep during the day and seem rather lethargic.
Funnily, during ceremonial preparations, many locals will just not even bother turning up for their day jobs as they do not care if they are fired. Many work in the hotel industries and as there are so many hotels, finding work is no problem. Basic English is really the only necessary skill required.
Their responsibilities within the ceremonies are a far greater a priority to them. What was interesting to hear was that no one in Bali was poor and if they did lose their job, everyone had a home to go to, duties and chores to help with and that everyone who lived in the villages basically shared everything! (A complete reverse to the UK neighbour relationships I have grown up with).
We arrived at our little village, Sobangan, a beautiful little place oozing with community spirit straight from the start. Augustin explained how most people, in-fact the vast majority of residents will never leave their village at any point during their lives.
He even went on to add that if you were to ask an individual if they knew where a place was even just a few kilometres away they would be lost. No one travelled, no one saw the need. These people lived for their families and their duties within the family. Each household would be inhabited by 3 generations and it was crucial for a women to give birth to a son to carry on the family name.
We were led to the home of a little family who had been in the village for generations. The house was unlike anything I have ever witnessed. Every house in the village is structured in the same context, only so different in size and scope of land.
We heard that any land within villages was privately owned so having strong relationships with residents is crucial to be allowed access to their surroundings. The graciousness of the local residents was so humble and remarkable – you could not walk anywhere without being offered to come in for food or drinks.
This was only possible for us to be a part of due to the sincere relationships built up by Augustin. He prided himself on never gaining friendships through giving money, he would always come bearing gifts of food or clothes or take time out in his day to play with the local children or help out with chores and duties.
Another village home
The house consisted of multiple little buildings sitting on a plot of land and the family would do everything here. All houses tend to have two kitchens, typically due to having different generations in the family and having many people to look after. Neighbours share absolutely everything including meals they have cooked up. We gave the family some food upon arrival.
Two kitchens next to one another
A young boy from the family was blind however he knew Augustin’s voice, it was remarkable to see their relationship and how this little boy opened up to him in such a warm manner. We were told that Bali is not a place fit for disabled people and many tend to live a horrific existence and are put in a mental institution regardless of their condition – didn’t matter if they were blind or crazy – they would be combined under the same roof!
It was a pure joy to see this little boy to cared for and to know his family would always be their to look after him. There is no work for disabled people, therefore many are just forgotten about.
The house had a large bed outside in what was called in our terms the ‘living room’. This bed is traditionally used by the head of the household, usually the grandfather to watch over the family home.
Also, if a member of the family dies, their body is placed on the bed to allow friends and relatives to come prey. Within the grounds of the house, every home will also have their own family temple. There will also be a small hut life structure to store rice if ever there is a time harvesting cannot take place.
Also the living room…
Entrance to family temple
We were shown to the family workshop area where men and young boys were constructing the most beautiful wood carvings to be sold onto temples and other Balinese infrastructure. The intricate detail and time that is taken to create such a masterpiece was fascinating to see.
Augustin explained how boys were taught everything they knew through older family members and that the tradition would be carried on throughout the generations. We were shown a particular piece which took a week to carve highlighting one of the three worshipped Balinese gods. It wouldn’t matter if it took a week, month or year to create a piece, they are still paid the same. They have no concept of time for money.
Amazing carving of a Balinese God
The families grandmother kindly made us some home brewed coffee (the sweetest coffee I ever tasted) and it was actually pretty nice, I even finished Michael’s who wasn’t too keen. We chilled at their home and took in the surroundings. It really made me think a lot about their lives verses ours.
Their lives were just so humble and stress free. Family was all that mattered and the kids seemed to have a colourful childhood of playing outdoors, surrounded by the comfort of their neighbours and families alike.
It made me think that maybe really we’re the poor ones. We seem to have everything at our fingertips yet there is always something to be stressed or worried about. There are definitely far less pressures here and as Augustin explained further that everyone who lives here will always return home, even if someone goes off to make money for a few years, they will always find themselves back home.
On my second cup
We said our goodbyes and headed off trekking through the jungle which surrounded the village. We waded across a stream where we witnessed the village women washing their clothes in the water, the children playing in it and even people taking their daily bath in it. Yes, the water was used for absolutely everything… It was even the villages bathroom! Safe to say I would not feel confident in washing myself or my clothes in the same stream where someone else has just relieved themselves…
The jungle was spectacular and Augustin had the three of us push ourselves as hard as we could. We swam across the river, balanced as best as we could crossing areas with the rocks beneath our feet, hiked up muddy hillsides, crawled through rocky waterfalls all whilst seeing the local people carry out their daily rituals.
The best thing about the trek was that we really were the only westerners for miles around! We were taught how to say hello and thank you out of respect as the residents really appreciate us taking time to know their own language. Sadly I now cannot remember what we were saying…
Caught mid slip
On our travels we stopped off at another family household (after being followed by the village drunk) who was adamant he wanted us to have a drink with him.
The family were so friendly and let us take pictures of their new born baby and the adorable puppies that ran around their garden. Again they kept trying to offer us everything under the sun.. It’s amazing just how generous someone can be who doesn’t not have much to give.
Those eyes
This little boy loved getting his picture taken
We trekked further into the jungle and stopped by a beautiful river where we had a swim and were given food prepared by a friend of Augustins. The four of us found a nesting spot and ate in silence whilst taking in the beautiful landscape which sat before is. It was just so peaceful and I wanted to sit there all day…
What was so inspiring is we were sat right in the midst of where Augustin hopes to expand his business. He showed us the land he is negotiating to purchase in order to build a remote jungle house to extend his tours overnight. He plans to have guests over for a nights sleep, nestled in the depths of the breathtaking jungle surroundings and the rivers that flow through.
I hope that one day when we are back in Bali his dreams have become reality and we may have the privilege of embarking on such a thrilling challenge.
I hope to see a house here one day…
Back on foot, we trekked out of the jungle and heading back into the village. We were shown the traditional bell used (even to this day) to communicate with neighbouring villages, sounding an alarm of invasion or just to say hey.
We noticed every home had bamboo decorations in accordance with Galungan that would remain there for the next 210 days until it was time to prepare again.
The final part of the tour took us through the absolute gorgeous rice fields that bloomed for miles and miles. Everything was grown there not only rice, but beautiful flowers that we had seen throughout our stay in Bali. These flowers are placed in small wooden trays every morning and sat outside homes, temples… well pretty much everywhere as a peace offering to the bad spirits.
The Balinese believe there are good and bad spirits and if you are consistent in your offerings and prayers to the bad spirits, no harm or dangerous karma can cross your path.
The fields were homed to thousands of mouthwatering fruit trees where we were tempted to kick back and taste from them all.
The farmers were so lovely to us, they even tried to make us leave with gifts of vegetables to help with our own cooking (probably a bad time to tell them we are all bad cooks)!
It was tiring just hearing about all the work these women do in the rice fields. They harvest three times a year but have to plant the seeds, wait for the rice to grow, then plough the fields and re-plant the rice 20cm away from each other to make for the best rice. It really is unreal how hard they do work.
After an unbelievable day we dropped Michael off in Ubud and Augustin kindly took Gary and myself and treated us to some traditional Indonesian food and ice tea in a local Warung he knew quite well, close to where we both stayed. Again the tea was incredibly sweet – the Balinese sure do love their sugar.
He dropped us off right back at our apartment and we thanked him for giving us the most phenomenal and unforgettable day!
I wish we were staying longer to do more of his treks. I urge anyone coming to Bali to give Augustin a call…
Thank you for reading and I hope you are enjoying the adventure with us.
Lots of love
Xx
